Concrete FAQs — Arlington Concrete Co.

Most full driveway replacements in the Columbus area run between $10,000 and $20,000 depending on size, site conditions, and finish type. Per square foot, standard broom finish driveways typically land in the $12.75–$14.00 range for most residential jobs. Smaller driveways cost more per square foot than larger ones. Stamped concrete patios run higher. We give every customer a written quote based on their specific property — not a generic estimate pulled from a national average. For accurate Columbus pricing, the best step is a site visit.

Yes. Matt (owner) visits the property, measures the scope, and provides a formal written quote. We don’t quote over the phone for jobs we haven’t seen.

We are typically booked several weeks to a few months out depending on the season. Spring and summer book fastest. If you’re planning a project, the earlier you reach out the better. Current availability is noted when you contact us.

No. Every job is completed by our own crew. The people who show up to your property are Arlington Concrete employees — not a subcontracted team we’ve never worked with. This is one of the things we feel most strongly about.

We focus on residential flatwork — driveways, patios, walks, approaches, garage and gym slabs, steps, and pads. We do not do house foundations.

Broom finish is the standard textured surface you see on most driveways and sidewalks — a stiff brush is dragged across the surface to create a non-slip texture. Stamped concrete uses rubber stamp tools pressed into the concrete while it’s still wet to create patterns that mimic stone, brick, slate, or wood. Stamped concrete also uses color — a base pigment in the mix and an antiquing release agent applied at the stamp. Broom finish is lower cost and very durable. Stamped concrete costs more but gives you a decorative, custom look. Both are excellent choices depending on the project and budget.

Sika is a waterproofing admixture added directly to the concrete mix at the plant before the truck leaves. It works from inside the slab — not just the surface — to reduce water absorption and improve long-term durability. We include it in every pour. Many contractors skip it. We don’t.

Our minimum spec is a high-quality 6.5 bag mix, 6 percent air, no fly ash, no slag — straight cement only at 4,500 PSI. This exceeds the standard recommendation of 4,000 PSI for exterior slabs. Under normal wear and tear, you can expect 30–50 years of life from a properly installed concrete driveway or patio.

We collect a 10 percent security deposit when you confirm the job. The remaining balance is collected after the work is complete and you are satisfied.

Most driveway replacements run three days. Day 1 is tear-out and prep — we remove the existing concrete and set the forms. Day 2 is the pour. Day 3 we return to strip the forms, saw-cut the control joints, relay the sod along the edges, and wash the driveway down. Some smaller jobs can be completed faster. Jobs involving a city walk or approach may take longer due to municipal inspection requirements.

We ask that the decision maker be present on the first day so we can do a final walkthrough before work starts. Small adjustments often come up at this point. If any changes affect the scope or price, we document them and present a revised number before proceeding. After that, you don’t need to be present for the duration.

For driveway jobs, have all vehicles moved away from the work area before we arrive. Beyond that, we handle everything.

We resolve issues using our own resources. We take precautions upfront to prevent problems — right mix spec, proper prep, correct forms — and if something unexpected comes up, we address it directly. You won’t be left with an unresolved issue.

We saw-cut, always. We return the morning after the pour once the concrete has cured enough to cut cleanly. Industry standard requires control joints to be cut to at least ¼ of the slab depth — on a 4-inch slab that’s a minimum 1-inch cut. Hand-tooled joints done during the pour typically don’t reach that depth. Saw cutting takes an extra day but it’s the right way to do it.

We cut the sod back carefully before setting the forms — typically about nine inches from the edge. After the forms are stripped on the final day, we relay that sod right back to the edge of the new concrete. We also wash the driveway down before we leave. The finished job looks complete from day one.

After 28 full days. Heavy vehicles need the full cure period.

This is completely normal. Concrete takes up to 60 days to fully cure. During that time, varying amounts of moisture evaporate from different sections at different rates, causing color variation. It will even out as the curing process completes. If you’re still seeing variation after 60 days, contact us.

Rust stains on a concrete driveway are almost always caused by iron-rich particles in the aggregate — the sand, gravel, and crushed rock in the concrete mix. These are natural geological materials that occasionally contain small iron-bearing deposits. When those particles are near the surface and exposed to moisture and oxygen, they oxidize and leave a rust-colored mark. This is not a workmanship issue and is not caused by the concrete crew. Most rust stains can be treated with CLR, Wink, or an oxalic acid-based rust remover. Read our full guide on concrete driveway rust stains.

Yes. We recommend a penetrating, water-based sealer applied one to two years after the initial pour, then every three to four years after that. Sealing reduces moisture absorption, slows wear, and helps protect the surface from Ohio’s freeze-thaw cycles. We can recommend products or provide the service directly.

The sheen of the sealer affects both appearance and traction. A matte sealer has more slip resistance and keeps a natural look. A gloss sealer makes the color pop but has less traction when wet. For areas exposed to regular moisture or rain, matte is the safer choice. For covered patios or drier areas, gloss looks great. We’re happy to recommend specific products based on your project.

Act quickly. Oil, grease, and most spills are easiest to remove before they set. Light pressure washing handles most surface stains. For rust stains specifically, use CLR, Wink, or an oxalic acid-based cleaner — test in a hidden area first, scrub with a stiff nylon brush, and rinse thoroughly. Do not use a wire brush. Full rust stain cleaning guide here.

We recommend avoiding deicing salts for at least the first two winters on new concrete. New concrete is more susceptible to the damage salt causes — primarily scaling and spalling from repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Products containing ammonium nitrates or ammonium sulphates are especially harmful and will chemically attack the concrete. Use sand or kitty litter for traction instead. If you need a deicer, use a commercial-grade sealer with a silane/siloxane salt barrier before winter — we recommend Sealwize LithiSeal Zli71 if deicing salts are necessary.

Avoid metal blades — they can scratch and scar the surface finish. Use a plastic shovel instead. They’re also easier on your back.

Not necessarily. All concrete develops some cracking over time — that’s the nature of the material. Hairline cracks that aren’t growing or separating are cosmetic and don’t affect structural integrity. We use proper mix specs, fiber reinforcement, and saw-cut control joints specifically to minimize cracking and guide it where it should happen. If you see cracks that are widening, separating, or accompanied by settling, give us a call.

Reseal every two to three years — more often in high-traffic areas. Keep it clean. Avoid harsh chemicals. The color and pattern will last significantly longer with regular sealing than without it. If you’re unsure whether it’s time to reseal, run water on the surface — if it absorbs instead of beading, it’s time.

The options are extensive — ashlar slate, cobblestone, European fan, wood plank, herringbone brick, random stone, and more. Colors are created through a combination of integral base pigment in the mix and an antiquing release agent applied at the stamp. We send every customer to Deco-Crete Supply (690 Harrison Dr, Columbus, OH 43204 — Mon–Fri 7–5, Sat 8–12) to see actual samples in person before making a final decision. You can also browse our stamped concrete design catalog to start narrowing options.

Yes. As part of a concrete patio job, we can arrange to have a gas line installed by a licensed plumber. The gas line typically runs around $1,500 depending on length and whether a line already exists outside the house. This is a popular addition to stamped concrete patios.

We build retaining walls using Oberfields products — a Columbus-area manufacturer with an excellent range of precast retaining wall, seat wall, and column options. You can browse their retaining wall selection at oberfields.com. Walls are priced per square foot of wall face.

We install the Oberfields Edington fire pit (48″ with caps) as part of a patio project. For fireplace inserts and gas fire pit components, we send customers to Woodland Direct and BBQ Guys to select the ring size and gas components that fit their needs. For natural stone fireplaces and enclosures, Hamilton Parker and Reading Rock both have Columbus showrooms with quality selections.

Yes. We can quote and build a pergola as part of a patio project. Pricing is case-by-case depending on size and materials. Pergola Kits USA is a good resource to browse styles and sizes before we talk through options.

Yes. Learn more about our concrete basketball courts here.